The Elaphiti — the “deer islands” of antiquity — lie just northwest of Dubrovnik, a quiet scatter of pine, olive and limestone. Of the thirteen islands and islets, three are inhabited and only one, Koločep, is visible from the old city walls. Together they form one of the most peaceful sailing grounds in the Adriatic.

No motorways. Few cars. Stone houses, old chapels, terraced vines, fig trees by the harbours. A day among them is a day in another century.